I’m on the train. Its massive – at least 20 carriages long, mainly consisting of second class hard sleepers (with the population of a small town settling in). It was a bit of a leap of faith getting this far as the system of waiting rooms, ticket check ins, scrum downs and carriage numbering are pretty alien to my Western brain. I’m in carriage L2. Where do you find that that when they won’t let you on to carriage number 2 and you only speak three words of Mandarin? The answer I discovered is that it’s at the slightly posher […]
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Distance travelled so far: 9336 km. Distance left to go to Singapore: 9152 km Final morning on the train before we arrive at Beijing. Time for a rather early lunch in the Chinese restaurant carriage, and then some packing and exchanging plans with fellow travellers. No idea why, but lunch is strictly served between 10.30 and 11.30 this morning. No menu as such, but all quite friendly and efficient. As seems to be normal in a Chinese restaurant car, a policeman is on hand to prevent possible noodle theft and black market exchanges of meal coupons! The scenery is totally […]
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Distance so far: 8493 km. Weather: dry and cold, guess -10 degrees C An early dinner today as the brilliant Mongolian restaurant carriage leaves us at 19.10 local time. I will miss everything about it other than possibly its temperature. We have just arrived on the Mongolian side of the Chinese border. The soldiers are saluting the train as it arrives on the platform, heralding several hours of paperwork, searches and inspections. I have filled in the paperwork for both sides already, so hopefully I’m ahead of the game. I have to tell you that the Mongolian border officers here […]
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You get just a day to try your hand at some good and very reasonably priced Mongolian fare. The restaurant takes Yuan, so no need to do a black market deal for local currency (of course they say no one will take anything else at the border!) The menu is in English, Chinese and Mongolian with pictures of the main dishes. Highlights for me are the beef dumpling soup, the “Traveller’s Beef” and the Russian Champanska. The best local beer is a bottle of Golden Gobi, and to give you an idea, the filling dumpling soup and a GG beer will cost […]
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An epic day crossing the Gobi desert to the soundtrack of “Wish You Were Here” (Discovery edition). When we stopped at Choyr I dashed up front (it’s still a long way) to do my trainspotter bit. There was some funky young Mongolian guy doing the same – dressed in a blue flying suit, brown leather flying boots, a peaked Mao hat, some Oakley shades and carrying a silver topped stick (see the picture below). He smiled and then proceeded to climb up the ladder onto the engine – he was the driver! I have to say he looks very happy […]
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I’ve made a point of getting up early for our arrival into Mongolia’s capital city. Its 06.30 Beijing time and still quite dark. I will describe the temperature as “quite cold”, somewhere in the -30s C. The place is buzzing with locals carrying huge numbers of parcels wrapped in brown paper, mixed with western tourists with serious looking rucksacks and insulated climbing boots. Actually not much to see on the platform, but I’m guessing that any sane Mongolian would conduct their retail activities indoors. I can see coloured disco lights coming from outside the station, and also a door signed […]
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Distance covered so far: 7393 km, estimated temperature: -24 degrees C Greetings from Mongolia! I’ve just crossed the frontier from the Russian Federation and am now sat quietly in the darkness on the Mongolian border. It’s all very Cold War again – soldiers standing to attention on the platform and immigration officers carrying briefcases ready to board and examine everyone that they find on train 004. Guard dogs roam freely on the platform. I think my paperwork is in order, but judging by the degree of close inspection my visa was given before being taken away, I’m not 100% sure. […]
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Okay, so here’s how it works. The restaurant is kind of franchised to a Russian couple on this train. They cook food to order and have a Russian menu with approximate English translations. There is a plentiful supply of cold beer and warm vodka. Hardly any locals eat here, it’s just really for rich and decadent Western tourists. About 80% of what is on the menu is unavailable, but in my experience of two trips, there is a plentiful supply of fresh salmon, pork, beef, ham, eggs & cheese and potatoes. There are even a couple of vegetarian options. The coffee is […]
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Its a perfect day on the Trans-Mong 004. Listening to my Pink Floyd back catalogue (turned up slightly too loud) in my compartment whilst I update the blog. We are about 30 minutes behind schedule – I don’t know why. We left Irkutsk on time at about 04.30 (local) and have been weaving around vast frozen lakes most of the morning. By chance I was just walking back from my ablutions at about 09.30 (local) and I nearly dropped my toilet roll when I looked out the window to see Lake Baikal – absolutely massive, stunning, like a sea, and […]
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An afternoon stop in Ilanskaya for coal. My train timetable says we are 4379 km from Moscow, so if I have covered 1502 km getting to Moscow then that’s 5881 km total so far – that is further than I had guessed. As you can see its dry and sunny now, not sure how cold, maybe around -10 degrees C. Lots of platform food action here – beer, weird dried fish and chilled dumplings – we must be getting more Eastern if the food is anything to go by. The mode of transport for these mobile “shops” is by sledge […]
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